Dada a extensão deste artigo, achei por bem publicar as versões inglesa e portuguesa em separado. Para a versão portuguesa, cliquem aqui.
This is the third and final part of Rob Chave’s step-by-step guide on how to design and sew a doublet, using my own doublet as a case study. This next part deals with hemming and sewing eyelets. You can read Part I here and Part II here.
30 – Now the body is assembled, it’s time to hem around the front opening and bottom edge. This is done using a hem stitch, as shown. When that’s done, the basting thread can be cut away around the edges, though be sure to leave the basting thread in place around the armscyes until the sleeves are in.
31 – Now onto eyelets. I prefer to make them slightly larger to allow aiglets to go through more easily. Having wrestled with undoing a full spiral lace with small eyelets, it’s my preference. I also stitch them very tight to create a very solid eyelet; especially if this is taking the tension of the lace on a wasp-waisted doublet, or the weight of armour. I don’t want them stretching. For this I’ve ground down a screwdriver of the right size into a round section point. Again, this is my preference, after having used traditional awls through some very heavy layering. First, after marking the position, carefully make the hole. Don’t push hard enough that it could pull threads of the fabric out of place. Work from both sides, and push the awl through from both sides.
32 – Make a circle of running stitches around the hole while leaving the awl in place. Note for this thread that I’m using it doubled up. Thicker threads can be used with a single strand.
33 – Bring the needle up through to the outside, put it through the hole, and repeat further round. I start by doing one circuit of about 10-12 stitches, and then push the awl through again, from both sides, to widen it out.
34 – Then I do another circuit around the hole to fill in the gaps after the first circuit. To finish the thread, tuck it under a few previous stitches as shown here.
35 – Push the awl through it a last time. Don’t feel your eyelets have to be quite so firmly sewn. I prefer to do it for the reasons given, but consider the cost and prestige of the silk velvet shown here, compared to how rushed the eyelets look.
36 – I made the ones at the collar slightly smaller. I just did this by not pushing the awl quite as far in.
37– The positions of all the other eyelets in between marked out.
38 – A complete torso.
39 – The seam of the sleeve, and setting it in, is the same method as before. I just use a few clamps and hold it together at the seam and halfway points I marked at the basting stage.
40 – The result: the sleeve is now set in, with the marks all lined up. The last stage now is to hem stitch around the cuffs and add eyelets (or buttons) there, if it’s not a slip-on sleeve.
41/42– The finished garment.
We hope this guide proves useful. It bears reiterating: this is just one possible method for making a solid, properly shaped doublet – there are plenty of alternatives. Any and all questions are welcome!