Dada a extensão deste artigo, achei por bem publicar as versões inglesa e portuguesa em separado. Para a versão portuguesa, cliquem aqui.
PIECE OF THE MONTH IV – TUNIC OF SAINT JOANA
Collection: Museum of Aveiro (inv. no. 2/D)
Dates: 1472-1490
Provenance: Convent of Jesus of Aveiro
Local of Production: Unknown
Dimensions: 130cm in length × 255cm in width
Weight: Unknown
Materials: Linen
Description: This tunic (or shirt) is one of very few surviving pieces of 15th century clothing [1], and one of the best (and least known) treasures of that era in Portugal. It is one of the relics of Saint Joana, princess of Portugal and daughter to Afonso V. Together with half of a belt and the remains of a scapular, it was kept at the Convent of Jesus in Aveiro. In reality, it is only half of a tunic – the back of it has been lost, probably cut up into smaller relics.
This tunic is entirely made of plain linen with a taffeta weave. It has a shallow neckline, closed by drawstrings – indicative of the change in fashions at the end of the 15th century. The body of the tunic has an evasé cut, that is to say, tight at the bosom and then flaring out. The entire tunic is sewn with linen thread.
As one of the everyday garments of a nun, the tunic of the princess-saint was always bound to be a simple piece. However, its materials and construction allow us a glimpse to how most undergarments of the time – for both men and women were made. As reenactors, particularly those of us who aren’t afraid to get down and dirty with needlework, being able to observe in minute detail the inner structure of a piece such as this one is absolutely essential.
[1] It is not yet completely certain that the relics actually date from the 15th century, but the probably is extremely high. See Mota, M. (2019). “Tesouros têxteis do cofre relicário da Princesa Santa Joana”. In A. Serrano, M. J. Ferreira, and E. C. de Groot (eds.). Estudos sobre têxteis históricos, 31. Lisboa: Associação Profissional de Conservadores-Restauradores de Portugal (ARP), pp. 162-165.
BIBLIOGRAPHY
Mota, M. (2019). “Tesouros têxteis do cofre relicário da Princesa Santa Joana”. In Serrano, A., Ferreira, M. J., and de Groot, E. C. (eds.). Estudos sobre têxteis históricos, 31. Lisboa: Associação Profissional de Conservadores-Restauradores de Portugal (ARP), pp. 155-165
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